Yeah, I’ve had the same issue with with a couple different brands similar to the Earpeace ones. They also felt like they were more plugging rather than filtering when fully inserted.

With Earasers, their shape helps them latch into place pretty well, even while eating or talking. If I go into a quieter area and want to hear better I can even pull them slightly out and they’ll stay in place.

I don’t remember how the versions are different from each other but I have the -26dB and -31dB ones in their music category. The -26dB ones work for most things and I can use the higher one when I expect it to be really loud. Their ‘starter kit’ in is a good idea if you are unsure of what size you need, you can get the ‘pro kit’ later if you want to try a third size and the other two NRR levels.

Those are my preferred ones. I see them as halfway between generic and custom-molded, with different sizes and sound filter options to fit your needs.

I’ve been right next to one of the loudspeaker during a Meshuggah show (got a nice full-body massage from the bass) and could still hear a pin drop when I got home because of them.

Another time, at an Eagles show, I could pick out two of three people starting a encore chant from 40-50ft (~12-15m) away, despite all the cheering and applause.

Capacitive touch monitors would be close, but they tend to be expensive and just ust regular glass. (still could resist a cat scratch as long as there isn’t any grit/sand stuck in the claws)

The only real benefit of vim IIRC is that it’s always included in an installation. The other text editors may need to be separately downloaded/installed on new or unfamiliar systems.

Like the other user said, if nano works for you, keep it. If you ever are forced to use vim however, a cheatsheet like this one should make it doable. (And yes, hitting esc a couple times before entering any command is a common practice to make sure you exited a mode)

It’s more complex and expensive to have it controlled by software though.

Hardware controlled would be the equivalence of using a splitter to add a second lamp on an outlet attached to a light switch. (would only require a change in a trace or two and a transistor/resistor or two.)

Software controlled is the equivalence having to buy smart outlets and programming them yourself to have the two lamps turn on at the same time. (requires the same as a hardware switch, plus a more expensive or even an extra controller chip along with the need to write and program it.)