Upgraded from a NEMA24 to a NEMA34.

Before going out and milling or buying it in metal it is always a good idea to testprint it.

Probably will use the plastic part for a while as 3mm wall-thickness PETG seems might already be good enough.

  • HumanPenguin@feddit.uk
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    4
    ·
    edit-2
    2 days ago

    For us beginners in 3d printing.

    What do the numbers in nema moters actually mean.

    I recognise they go up in size/power. But being from the UK. And Nema being a US standard. I’d love a guide.

    • evidences@lemmy.world
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      4
      ·
      1 day ago

      The number is the width/height of the mounting face in inches. So Nena 17 is 1.7inx1.7in on the mounting face, nema 23 is 2.3inx2.3in etc. though looking at datasheet for different nema sized mount that seems like an approximate not dead on number.

      • EmilieEvans@lemmy.mlOP
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        1 day ago

        Shaft diameter and length is also part of it.

        NEMA is just a mechanical aspect and contains zero information about the performance. Equally comparing motors by torque isn’t the full picture as the inductance (and other aspects) can be different. Equally important is the stepper-driver & supply voltage.

    • EmilieEvans@lemmy.mlOP
      link
      fedilink
      English
      arrow-up
      4
      ·
      edit-2
      2 days ago

      I see. Size doesn’t matter to you. It is all about skills.

      Let’s me introduce you to the 400W NEMA24 servo.

      edit: Sorry. Was only the 400W unit. Somewhere there should be a 750W speciment.

      Also be careful with these motor. While a small NEMA17 found on 3D-printer has 0.5 Nm and under normal conditions will stall before serious harm happens this NEMA34 is 9Nm which is enough to break bones. Those 400W servos are equally dangerous. While only around 1Nm they have roughly 4Nm peak and keep this torque at high RPMs.

      • Thorry84@feddit.nl
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        4
        ·
        edit-2
        2 days ago

        I’m sorry, I’m just insecure because I’m a small boi myself with a 8D shaft

        • EmilieEvans@lemmy.mlOP
          link
          fedilink
          English
          arrow-up
          3
          ·
          2 days ago

          Not bad either.

          Previously I had a 1.85Nm on this axis which wasn’t enough to reliably pull 1’500 mm^2/s acceleration milling metal. All sort of issues from overheating stepper driver to it losing steps.

          • Thorry84@feddit.nl
            link
            fedilink
            English
            arrow-up
            3
            ·
            2 days ago

            Yeah I used these in my manual mill converted to do power drive and some basic CNC stuff. They are excellent and have a lot of torque, but they are also very slow. Especially with the amount of step down gearing in a manual mill, the end result isn’t very fast. But I don’t really care, I’m usually not in a rush to do anything.

  • empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    1
    ·
    2 days ago

    Print that in a CF filament and I bet it will last the life of the machine.

    Depending on how hard you drive it about your only real failure risk is going to be failing in fatigue at higher temperatures.

      • empireOfLove2@lemmy.dbzer0.com
        link
        fedilink
        English
        arrow-up
        2
        ·
        edit-2
        2 days ago

        Thats why you go CF. It drastically increases the MoE of most plastics and they will not have nearly as much creep; you’re pulling mostly against the rigid fibers in the plastic matrix, and not loosely interlinked polymer bonds of plastic alone (which will disconnect over time and causes creep). As long as your service temp is not extremely high (>60C).